British fashion designer Virgil Abloh showcased his Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton on Thursday at Paris Fashion Week, a theatrical spectacle that focused on themes of rave culture, martial arts, and gender.
The collection was presented in a film titled “Amen Break” - a reference to a little-known drum riff from a song “Amen, Brother’” by the funk-soul group The Winstons that went onto underpin the foundation of hip-hop and jungle genres.
“The film reflects on a historic moment in Black art and culture when electronic music and hip-hop emerged like twins from the same egg, and trickled into every part of the globe,” the brand said in a release.
The collection parades an a myriad of chequers - an opportunity to the Damier motif and “the cultural tapestry of Virgil Abloh”. These collections are interpreted with various textures for three-dimensional or trompe l’oeil effects.
Flyers like those distributed at 1990s raves are woven into transparent monogrammed nylon jackets and patchwork in cotton shirts, while padding reflects the protective uniforms of sports and martial Arts, entering into a variety of pieces paneled with hard geometrical shapes.
Other highlights of the showcase included landscape bags created in jacquard made from recycled polyester thread and two suits made in partnership with New York artist Jim Joe - one black suit with beaded embroidery and a full-body knit morph suit with a chequer pattern.